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Peak Mountain 3

Hair Lip

FA Ivan Couch and Larry Reynolds, October 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a route that you won't soon forget! Start a bit to the left of a huge, right-facing flared chimney (

Hot Buttered Rump

). Progressively more difficult crack and then face climbing takes you up to just above (left of) the sharp lip of the chimney. The crux involves scary and very novel barn door liebacking, using the lip for handholds. The protection (bolts) is fairly good, but a fall could involve flying over the edge. This route gets morning sun.

Protection

a light rack plus three bolts