- Edit (TBD)
Description
BRILLIANT !!! I think one of the top 5 pitches on the cliff. The crux is the last 15'. Originally 10+
Start up 5.9-ish hands in a bit of a groove, this rapidly goes to thin hands and fingers. Get good rests with some small footholds (I also also remember one really good rest) and remember Ed & Jimmie 28 years ago in EBs. The crux is hard to hang in and protect but takes good gear -- small wires and RPs. Take a couple of whips and then set up a belay on a small stance. Lower down a little to see your second struggle.
There used to be a good viewing spot right on the road to watch people whipping on this, but it has probably grown over now.
Location
Do the first 2-3 pitches depending on linking then blast straight up the obvious crack
Protection
Good all the way thinning to small wires at the end.