Michoacan Bar

This route gets early shade, possible at 12:30 average warm season. Easy hand crack gets you to a ledge where you can easily place great finger-sized gear. Above, fiddle in some smaller tips gear before you need to commit to the fun and exciting finish.NOTE: There is good gear the whole way; with that said, place any small tips gear deep; too shallow placements can be in flaring pods and/or could break off some of the crispy edge of rock and fail. I watched someone take a decent fall from the last move of this route onto a purple C3; it held bomber. I also watched a shallow green C3 placement pop from body weight (placed at the crack edge); you can see the scar in the upper part of the crack.  After seeing this, we bounce-tested a better placement and it seemed fine, but just be aware.

First route you see when descending the slot-ramp.

Single Rack from hands to double zero (purple C3 is perfect). See gear note above.