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Description
Excellent chimney fun. Set gear to protect, but you won't use the crack much for climbing. Start is relatively easy but gets harder quickly due to poor feet, then eases higher up. Look for several small ledges on the face wall on the lower half and one large one on the back wall in the upper half. The crack reduces to a tight squeeze, but you should be able to fit all the way through and top out or get comfortable and set a belay anchor.
Take a headlamp, especially for the lower section.
To set a top rope before climbing, from the main entry tunnel go all the way back. There are two exits, one on the right and one straight back. The back exit is narrow, but the easiest. Upon exiting work your way right, back up and over. Pass a triangular hole, climb a couple of boulders, and look down onto the long narrow slot that is the exit for Tunnel Vision and Joy Crack.
Location
Enter the cave on the far right of the Southeast wall. Go in 30 feet or so, over a small boulder, and take the first left into a narrow slot that leads back parallel to the entryway. Joy Crack is immediately in front of you on the right. Move left 20 feet to Tunnel Vision crack.
Protection
Small to medium gear.
Routes in Southeast Face
- 13Joy Crack5.9Tr · Trad