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Peak Mountain 3

Gutenberger's Wall

FA Grant and Jeff Altenburg, early 1970s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A nice low angle face/friction climb on the pretty west face of the dome. Scramble up to a high ledge on the west side. Two pitches lead to the top. The second pitch, a little ways above the belay, is the hardest part.

Can also approach the ledge from the 5.5 approach to the central cracks. From the bolted belay on that, head right up an unprotected 5.4/5.5 slab between moss streaks to the long ledge.

Location

Up the un-vegitated west face of the dome. Scramble across the boulders in the river at the west side of the pool. A strange chimney manuever up a cleft in the step leads to scrambling up mossy rock and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. Head up the center of the slab to a two-bolt belay. The main business above follows the bolts.

Protection

Bolts: rumor has it that most of old 1/4" bolts are being replaced on the dome routes...we can hope this is true. Take a light rack for the first belay. the two belays above are bolted and can be rappelled.