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Description
Another great route for climbers who want to break into the harder side of five ten climbing. This route has a fairly mellow start and gets progressively harder as you climb higher. Really good holds lead to even better holds and a stopper crux is encountered higher up on the route giving a great ride that would be well in the comfort zone of beginning five ten climbers who wish to push the envelope. Be prepared to be heart broken when encountering a mono and swath of blank, black rock somewhere before the last two bolts. Climbing eases before the anchors on big holds. Overall, this route has great climbing on good rock. And despite the bit of lichen up top, that might thwart an onsight attempt, it's a very classy route. Get on it!
Location
Locate Two Kings and a Queen and head left. The route to the immediate left of Two Kings and a Queen is known as Suicide Jack. The five ten you are reading about is just to the left of Suicide Jack. Access by walking up a bridge made of logs, sticks and stones so that you don't break your bones.
NOTE: Leave the trad rack in the car! There is a route to the right of the five ten that you just read about. You will see two old buttonhead bolts at the beginning. This route does not have anchors. After the two buttonheads is an unprotectable, dirty crack system filled with vegetation and should not be attempted.
Protection
8 bolts. Modern sport climbing anchors. BE CAREFUL! This route is located to the left of an old trad line that has two buttonhead bolts at its start. Don't clip these!
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