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Peak Mountain 3

Up To No Use

FA Abel Jones and Nate Wilson GU August 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The crack system that goes through the roof to the right of conquistadors of the useless.

P1: 5.8? Straight line it from the ground to the second set of anchors on conquistadors.  Chossy but easy crack climbing to a couple bolts before the anchor. 100ft

P2: 5.10b/c Straight up the chossy crack above with interesting climbing and some wide crack sections to a perch on the right below the large roof.  Gear anchor. 60ft

P3: 5.10d blast out the roof with hand sized gear then tackle a quality face and thin crack section to a ledge with gear anchor.  50ft

P4: 5.11- up through a double thin crack section and some shallow corner climbing to a permanent sling anchor. 70ft

Descent:. Rap from sling anchor to the top anchors of conquistadors.  Rap that route.  (Look at conquistadors as you rap down... Looks good!)

Location

Obvious crack system splitting a large roof just to the right of conquistadors and on the wall to the left of orange pillar.

Protection

Double set to #4 and nuts