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Peak Mountain 3

Love Route

FA Carl Love, Bill Hurlihee, and Dean Eggett
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route ascends the lower left-hand side of the second buttress. Here, there is a subsidiary triangular buttress that ends at the great white band.

P1. On the right side of the triangle buttress, there is a low-angle, loose gully of junky 4th class climbing that can be reached by climbing a a 160 foot 5.6 pitch up a grassy, right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is the next main feature to the left of the Culp-Bossier.

P2-3. Next, pick your way up the gully for about 300 feet.

P4. At the top, belay a 5.6 pitch that continues upward through the white band for about 160 feet.

P5. Next, begin traversing right as you follow features up to a sloping ramp (5.6 - 5.7).

P6. Now, change your belay to the top of the ramp (angling up and to the right) for 50 feet. Finally, the exciting crux pitch traverves to the right under a big roof.

P7. Follow the steep line of fix pins and mank to the huge jugs at the top of the roof (5.9).

Take a look back at the valley floor before cranking over the top. SPECTACULAR!

P8. Finish the route by topping out over another easy 5.6 roof to gain Hallett Peak's flat, sloping summit ridge (150 feet).

Protection

Standard rack. Make sure you have a few longer slings for the last pitch that goes through two roofs.