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Peak Mountain 3

Angels on horseback/ That one time

FA early 80's
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Clean rock and awesome backcountry setting. From the info ive gathered the route is rated at .9 in the backcountry book but the description and the last 2/3 pitches don’t make sense with how hard the climbing is. Either an A0 move or two or its most likely in the .12 range. It also does not mention the offwidth at the topThe route starts at middle of the wall at a low angle wide crack.1. Go up around 100 ft of very enjoyable flakes and cracks and belay at tree (5.8)2.Move belay 20 ft to a nice ledge. Climb the awesome left facing corner with small gear and good slab edging for about 80 ft and belay at The right side of a ledge with bushes (.10)3.Step left on the manzanita tree and pull onto the ledge above it and find the bolt. Pull bulge to a bolt A0 or .12? ( both of us pulled on pin)  then follow the layback crack with more pins until you reach a big slot under a big roof. belay here. (.11?)4. Hard moves from the hanging belay and onto the steep offwidth chimney.  Climb little wide roof and continue to the top to a tree (.10+)5. Continue around ridge and climb a 5.6 crack to reach the true summit. Look for some old pine trees and descend down large gully.2 tree rappels (full length) You could algo get away with one rope just bring lots of Tat

Location

Go to Mt. Graham and follow the bob kerry guide

climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…

Protection

doubles from 0 to 3 and a single 4 or 5 cam BD 2 ropes


Routes in Hell's Hole


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    Angels on horseback/ That one time
    5.11
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