- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a somewhat random line that shares the same start as
For Real Crack
– but moves out left across the face where For Real Crack goes off to the right.
"Climbing 5.12 on pristine rock is easy. 5.8 choss covered with moss is where the real business happens."
– Pro Choss Climber
P1:
Begin climbing an unprotected face to a knob. Stand on the knob and place your first pro (
10+ feet
high
). Continue up the obvious wide, mossy crack until it peters out to a bunch of horizontal dikes. Using the dikes as jugs, traverse to another crack to the left. Continue up this crack until it stops, then do a diagonal, left, and runout traverse to a mini ledge. Once on this small ledge, start looking for pro. We didn't find good pro for a belay here, so we continued up another 15+ ft. or so through the squeeze chimney and set a belay in the middle of it.
P2:
From your last belay, continue up the next part of the squeeze. Once the chimney ends, a little higher you'll land on a ledge where the rock looks white. Climb up this section finding small pro where possible until you arrive on another slabby ledge. From the slabby ledge, continue straight up the low-angle face finding your way to the top. Build a creative belay using the boulders on top.
Location
Between "Surrealistic Pillar" and "For Real Crack".
Protection
Cams: Doubles to 3". A single 4".
Nuts: 1 set.
Gardening Gear: 1 set :)
Routes in Lower Buttress
- 7Easy Moss5.8Trad