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Peak Mountain 3

El Supremo

FA Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, and Rob Baker (4th pitch variation Rob Baker and Peter Prandoni)1985
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the best slab routes in the "Platte". Wigwam Dome is located in a beautiful valley along Wigwam Creek. A nice and fairly flat two mile hike will get you to the base of the climb. The climb starts on the left side of the dome below obvious water streaks.

Pitch one. Climb up over a small overhang passing two old bolts. Continue up following the sometime flaring crack to it's end. Make a long traverse left to a two-bolt belay. Option: after 30 feet of climbing look for a bolt on the left leading into a obvious water streak. This is Violent Energy a 12b start to the route. Hand rail past the third bolt to reach the water groove. Make a series of hard moves on small edges and nubbins and difficult clips up the groove. Follow the groove up to the belay.

Pitch two: Move left and up from the belay. Traverse right passing two bolts. Fire up the beautiful slab on wonderful edges, nubbins and smears, tending right to the belay.

Pitch three: go right from the belay and clip the first bolt, fire up to the second bolt (a little run-out) and climb the beautiful steep slab past several bolts (9) to an old 1/4 inch bolt. Get ready for a long runout to the anchor.

Pitch four. Climb almost straight up from the belay over a small overhand and past two old bolts (crux). Veer a little left and run it out to the third bolt. Go right (yellow alien) and run it out to the fourth bolt. Glide up to the belay. Follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Walk off to the right and down to the base.

Protection

Take 15 quickdraws and gear up to a 3 friend if you do the standard first pitch.