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Peak Mountain 3

Corkscrew

FA Steve Wunsch and Diana Hunter, 1969
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A seller route of quality rock, great protection, and a bit of every type of climbing on it. In the name, the routes starts on the face and winds around to the left side of the tower then back right around a notch behind a tower then finishing straight up on easier terrain to the top.

Jam cracks, face climbing, a chimney and exposed moves out and around a corner from under a roof. classic climing in a classic setting.

Start below the large left facing dehedral and make the first pitch belay at the bottom of it on a large ledge 5.6. Move left 2 meters to a short but fun 5.7 crack to low angled slab above with good pro. The angle kicks back up into a 5.8 hand crack to under a roof with a good belay stance on a small block in the corner. Pitch three (money) goes out from under the roof and around the corner into a quality crack to a large ledge 5.7 (possible belay stance). Continue up a double left leaning crack system to the base of the chimney 5.9. Pitch four ascends the chimney using deep holds and cracks for pro then onto the large ledge above. Continue up broken terrain to the next large grassy ledge 5.6. The fifth pitch goes to the top on low 5th class terrain after a few moves of 5.6.

Location

This route is located on the southern face of the Fairshare Tower. The start is either directly below the large left facing dihedral or on the left side of the arete following a right trending ledge system that goes at 5.6

Protection

Basic alpine rack to #3 camalot. doubles of #1 and #2 camalot nice, but not 100% necessary.