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Peak Mountain 3

North Shore

FA J. Ogden, T. Donahue, V. Shultz-Pelkum, 2009
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UPDATED 

Description

This is great climbing on a west-facing aspect on the South Rim via the Echo Canyon gully.

In general, this has good movement, lots of sporty climbing, and jamming with tricky pro. It would be an awesome route if the rock was clean, that's the only bad thing. There are definitely 5.11b moves on the route, but I personally thought it was a soft 5.11+ grade. Not for beginnerish tradsters!

Worth doing! I like every route in the Black! Almost.

Location

Park at the Cross Fissures overlook pullout. Walk west 100 yards further and enter the bushy gully on the right with big pines in it also. The bushes go away after 5 minutes or so. See the topo, but the route base is 45 minutes down and on the right side there is 2 cairns and the one is against the wall and is built out of white rocks.

After topping out, you're on an island. Head up and then to the right (south) for 100' and down 25', there is a ledge with a 2 bolt rap anchor. One 200' rap into an east/west narrow slot/gully below the Cross Fissures overlook railing. We simul-climbed in our approach shoes about 250' to the railing.

Protection

Double cams to #2s, 1-#3, !-#4, RPs, triple fingers to smalls are nice to have. You encounter a fixed nut or 2 and 2 pro bolts.