Oso Rodeo

This magnificent route features long stretches of clean knobby slabs, pure friction moves at several cruxes, and a couple of fine mantelshelf problems. All well protected, with plentiful natural and bolted pro.

The route was spied and selected while descending the FA of the neighboring route, Slab Daddy. Work started on it the next season, Spring 2010, and completed in September, 2011.

Cruxes and points of interest:

Pitch 1, a stemming slot to some technical knobs, 5.9+.

Pitch 4, a friction mantelshelf move over a short overlap, 5.10.

Pitch 7, smooth slab to a mantelshelf move on the Black Overhang, 5.10-, then delicate knobs, 5.10+.

Pitch 9, slabby knobs lead up to friction scoops, one as slippery as a soap dish, 5.10.

Pitch 10, fabulous small knob climbing using a couple of dikes, 5.9.

Pitch 12, sustained technical knobs, 5.10.

Pitch 15, a ramp leads up to the Yellow Wall, sculpted with interesting pockets, 5.9.

Pitch 18, varied climbing with lieback edges, an eyebrow flake, and a technical finish move, 5.10-.

Pitch 19, delicate balance required up ramps with disturbing exposure, 5.10-.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Special thanks to Francis McGrody, Yale Lewis, John Medosch, and Carl Pelletier.

Photos by David Whitelaw, Bill Enger, John Medosch, Yale Lewis, and Jimbo Shokes

The original trip report was posted on cascadeclimbers.com on 11/20/2011, here:

Oso Rodeo, V 5.10+

The text, by David Whitelaw, is quoted here, in part:

"Date of Climb: 9/3-5/2011

On Labor Day weekend Bill Enger, Jim Shokes and I completed a new line at the northern end of Squire Creek Wall. It took two seasons; back and forth, nobody there except us, the hummingbirds and the frogs.

A couple years back we had thrashed our way over from the base of the Daddy and there it was, our new beginning. It starts in a kind of hollow grotto, a narrow swan's neck of granite, twisting its way down from way the hell up there, curving and white. Here we could start..."

Follow the approach directions on the Northern Section page. Then walk uphill past the start of Slab Daddy and follow the Approach Diagram.

Single standard rack to 4". There is a cruxy spot on the first pitch which protects well with a #5 Camalot, not needed higher up.

All of the holes on this route were drilled with hand drill and hammer. As the route is within the boundaries of designated Wilderness, power drills are not allowed. All bolts are 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts. Hangers are modern, stainless steel, mostly powder coated. Chain anchors are mostly Fixe stainless steel two-hanger chain with equalized ring.