- Edit (TBD)
Description
Killer line with 2 cruxes. You can build an anchor in the corner at the base of the crack to hold the belayer in place on a decent ledge. Fire up and back on powerful hand jams and pull onto the decent ledge around the corner. Rest up and get ready to fire the roof on solid but painful finger locks. After the roof the climbing eases off to around 10a, but is a little dirty.
Location
North side of the Icicle, 400 feet above the road, just past the Snow Creek Wall parking lot. You should be able to see the crazy roof from the road. It is just below Madsen's Buttress. There is a faint trail on the right side of the seasonal drainage that winds its way up the hillside to the roof.
The prominent line up the center of the air roof starting in the back corner of the alcove.
Protection
Doubles from fingers to #1, a single #2 should sort it out. The upper crack ranges from thin hands to fingers.