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Peak Mountain 3

It's a Mayracole

FA Troy Mayr and Charles Cole, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The name of this route is a fun play on the names of the first ascent party.

Very challenging and sustained climbing. A couple of the bolts are extremely difficult to clip, in particular the last one. The rock is also a little flakey in places, adding an additional challenge.

Climb past the first 2 bolts (10d) and do difficult moves (11b) in a bit of a runout position to obtain the 3rd bolt. The crux (11d) is encountered passing the 4th bolt and there is an 11a runout from the last bolt to the top (gets easier as it goes - fortunately).

Location

First completed line right of

Miscalculation

(there are two bolts close to the Miscalculation arete that are not the route).

Protection

Bolts. It is possible/best to belay at the double bolt anchor at the top of Miscalculation.