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Peak Mountain 3

Green Out

FA Chris Williams, Rachel Lowrance
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: The Sticky-Icky 5.8  Start on a series of super compact “plated” flakes and work your way to a high first bolt. Climb the obvious cleaned rock through various crack sizes until you hit a series of tundra ledges. Move up and left along the veg. You will pass one anchor (good for top roping pitch 1) before you come to a second anchor at the base of a short corner. Use the second anchor for continuing to pitch 2. 1 bolt, gear to 3”, 2 bolt anchor, 30m.P2: 100’ Bong Rip 5.10-  From the anchor, climb the short corner to the top of the pedestal. From the good ledge gain the slab with intermittent finger cracks and hold your breath. The cracks will steepen into a face climbing crux protected by a single bolt. Thin fingers and tips from the bolt to the top of the face, bring your tiny cams. One last bolt at the top to keep your rope off some talus on the ledge. 2 bolts, gear thin to 3”, 2 bolt anchor, 34m.P3: Greening Out 5.8  From the anchor climb left to a bolt. Pull a small bulge and meander your way along easier climbing and a few bolts. Gain a well textured slab and follow intermittent cracks to the top. Avoid getting into the green until the last moves. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge. From here you can either walk left int Catch the Wave area or rappel the route. 3 bolts, gear to 2”, 2 bolt anchor, 34m.

Location

Near the base of the Green Gully, look for well cleaned rock down and left of the giant eyebrow roofs.

Protection

Double rack to 3”, lots of small stuff. Bolted anchors. 70m rope MANDATORY to rappel.