- Edit (TBD)
Description
I gave this 3 stars, because you get a great sense of exposure on this climb as it angles out over an over-hanging arete. It's a mixed route. You need trad-gear and there are two bolts to clip on the way up. I belayed Ryan Lauck as he on-sighted the climb as a trad-lead. I've only top-roped it. The top anchors are easily accessible by hiking to the top of the crag, though I recommend putting yourself on belay before approaching the top-anchors. Do not mistaken the top-anchors for Batman Surprise with the top-anchors for this climb! There is a nasty sharp edge above the top-anchors for this climb, so if you're using the right anchors, the edge doesn't affect anything.
A variation of this climb is about 5.10 that just goes straight up the fall-line. Ryan Lauck climbed this too.
Location
This climb is on the South facing wall of the crag.
Protection
Standard rack, I guess. Two bolts to clip before a two-bolt anchor. Ryan slung a horn on the way up.
Routes in Farmington Crag
- 1Cool Air5.7Tr · Trad