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Description
Consistent bouldery movement up the pretty arete. This short route is action packed - it climbs like a tech arete boulder problem, straight into a power crimping face boulder problem, into a lip slapping finale. The stone is of high quality with unique grips. There is hardly time to get a shake on this one!
This route is fully shaded in the afternoon, and gets a strong breeze. It is reasonable to climb on during relatively hot days.
Location
The green and orange arete down and left of the first Enter the Dragon ledge belay. A short approach pitch is needed to get below the route - climb the splitter layback finger crack up for 20 feet until even with a large chicken head on the face. Head left here across slopey ledges on the slab over to sling the bush, and then down climb to the bolted anchor at a foot stance. The crumbly first pitch of Gritish Deal is another option at 5.10
It is easy to drop a bight of rope down once reaching the belay to pull up your sky cragging kit.
Protection
7 bolts. A single rack and runners are needed for the mini approach pitch.
Routes in Dragon Arch
- 2Iridescence5.14aSport