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Peak Mountain 3

Worthy Whoopsie

FA G. Kaplan and J. Garrett
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Worthwhile addition to the area circuit. Begin on typical quartzite past 3 bolts, then travel through some fractured lower angled rock to the upper smooth and steep shield. Careful about clipping bolt#6 as a fall with slack out could land you on the sloping ramp below. Pull the powerful final moves to the mantel/highstep and bolt#7. The TR anchors are a little hard to see (to the right) until you are on them (TR Variation is 5.9). Use 2-ft runners for best results!

Full Value Variation (5.11-) continues up to the left from bolt#7, past 4 more closely spaced clips through some steeper terrain to an awesome belay nook/ledge. Pitch 2 travels up low angle corner to loose step and gully before the final overhanging arete. 5 bolts worth of heel-hooking, knee bars, and laybacks up the steep but juggy arete see you to the top ledge and glue-in rap anchor (Or, it is enticing to climb easier terrain to the left of the arete and make reachy, blind clips to the right ~.8/.9 ish).

FYI: fun top-rope variation (Worthy Weakness, also 5.9) climbs the steeper/blocky arete about 6-ft. left of p1 to great move through roof to crack (this hasn't really been cleaned too well so...)

Location

10 ft. to the right (north) of 'Daily Diatribe'

30 ft. to the left (south) of 'Coral Bells Arete'

Protection

TR variation = 7 bolts to 2 chain anchor (on right)

Full Value variation = p1: 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor p2: 6 bolts to glue-ins and rap anchor