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Peak Mountain 3

Steel Pulse

FA Jeff Kelly, Dan Klimke, Gary Buckham, 1983. FFA: Jeff Kelly, Jeff Boucher, Matt Arksey, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

We climbed the 1st pitch on a warm January day 2014. I red pointed it again in March 2015.

Pitch 1 (100', 10b): Interesting variety of climbing, well bolted at crux moves, great pro everywhere else. Don't let the mossy start scare you off. Most of the pitch is clean, the start is 5.8 at most. Then, the first crux is a short slab traverse past 3 bolts into right-facing, right-leaning corner, 2nd crux is leaving the crack as it tapers off, going for thin flake, 2 more bolts and then the anchor. As with any slab/face moves, conditions can really effect the outcome. Cool dry days are best.

Pitch 2 (60', 10b): Slab crux near start before and after 1st bolt, 2nd bolt protects slab till you gain left end of small overlap. 2nd crux balance move on short slab below anchor.

Pitch 3 (100', 10c): Starts with nice layback cracks, 3 bolts protect upper slab. After passing the 1st bolt (1st crux), there is a hidden pocket- good for a BD #2. There are 2 bolts above here (2nd crux, 10c). Some gear protects the easy top of pitch.

One could combine pitch 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 if wanted.

The Cummins guide rates this as 10c, the later Sky Valley Rock, gave it a 10b.

Location

This route is on the right end of the crag. Dukes of the Stratosphere (11d) is on the left and a bolted variation (Scratch and Claw) is just right of this corner start.There is a roof that you lay-back around and 3 bolts visible above from the variation that comes in from the right side. It is just below and left of the steep gully trail to the top of Lookout point.

Protection

Standard rack to 2". Newer anchor at top of 1st pitch ( asca hangers ), can rap with single 60 meter rope. Bolted anchor top of 2nd pitch.Bolted Rap Anchor at top of 3rd pitch, Single rope rap from 3rd anchor to 2nd belay anchor, be careful not to swing into gully as the rap is not a plumb line.