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Peak Mountain 3

Vanishing Point

FA Gene Drake, Jim Orey, 1972. FAA: B. Todd & Rick Sumner & John Taylor 1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route ascends the huge dihedral/arch on the far right side of the West Face below some very distinctive big roofs looming above. Climb dikes into a smooth chimney. Grovel your way up through the Yosemite like smooth chimney, fist cracks and awkward widths. There is a finger sized crack in there somewhere, so make sure you have a few pieces of gear for that. A two bolt belay awaits at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch climbs a wide fist/offwidth to a roof where you hand-traverse out of the corner to the left along the overhanging roof and around the corner.

It is possible to traverse the roofs to the right (5.10c wide) and finish via Third Stone From the Sun (5.10d+ offwidth) or another roof/bulging corner (5.11+) to the right of that.

Protection

Pro to 4".