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Peak Mountain 3

Tail Tied Devil

FA Rusty Ballie
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This short fingers to hand crack is fun, but short. The 8+ rating seems to be adequate, but is certainly not any harder and may deserve an 8.

Location

Across the descent gully from the Guillotine Flake

Protection

Single set of cams to 3".  There is NO ANCHOR, so in order to bring up a follower or TR you'll need a cordalette (2 for redundancy) to sling the top of the pinnacle and belay/lower safely.  Once done on the route you can scramble to the top and clean your cord by connecting a long sling to the nearby anchor on "Gentle Persuasion" and stepping across.  This is all a bit sketchy, and could be easily fixed by someone with a drill and knowledge of placing bolts.