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Peak Mountain 3

Unconscious Incompetence

FA Tess Smith, Taimur Ahmad, August 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pull a cool, sequency first crux off the deck to a few bolts of easy, juggy climbing that trends slightly rightwards.  Get a rest, then continue up more jugs as the wall steepens until you arrive at a small mini-roof.  Pull the hard-to-read mini-roof (second crux) and mantel onto a ledge, where you get a no-hands.  One more bolt of jugs on better-than-it-looks rock leads to the anchors.

This is a very fun route that is fairly unusual for the area: pumpy, sustained, and steep, but on big holds and at a moderate grade.  It's a great climb for those at the 5.10 grade and also an excellent warmup for those projecting on the Gecko Wall.  The name is a reference to the experience level of the FA team as route developers (don't worry, we're pretty sure it's safe).

This is a new area with significant chunks of poor rock - despite extensive cleaning on the route, belayers should absolutely wear a helmet while this zone continues to clean up.

Location

Central line up Punk Rock, starting in black patina down low, skirting to the right of a grey patch, and then continuing straight up.

Protection

11 bolts to a lower off. The first bolt can be pre-clipped by stemming off the ramp that runs up from the start of the route.


Routes in Punk Rock


  1. 1
    Unconscious Incompetence
    5.10d
    Sport