Bushmen

Oh cruelty. I have been trying to decide how to write about this one for a while now. The name isn't really apt anymore, as the bushes have been pushed to the side enough that it isn't a problem.

The way I did this - at something like v1 - was to jump to the lip and topout. Kelly's guide says that you're supposed to actually grab the crimps on the face, paste your feet, and launch to the lip. I'm probably missing something, or maybe it was greasy out, or holds broke, or whatever, but I thought that that way was pretty brutal.

I only spent a few minutes on it, and so it's hard to judge, for sure, by that. Until I hear otherwise, I consider this a cool jump start, or a crispy as hell powerful sandbag v4. Tell me I'm wrong.

Update - finally committed to these sharp holds and did this. It's actually a pretty fun move, apart from the intense gritty-skin-ripping action.

Left of The Crimps, The Rail boulder, on a separate boulder. Look for a slightly steep face with a little crimper on it (this climb), and a right arete (Pruning Shears).

1 pad