- Edit (TBD)
Description
Starting from the trail, climb intermittent grooves and cracks to an overlap at ~100 feet. Decipher the downsloping features (5.9), and continue up an unprotected slab. Place protection in a horizontal, and traverse right to a ledge (130-foot pitch).
Pitch two diagonals right to the obvious crack/chimney system that continues to the top. The crux is in a flaring, featureless pod (120 feet, 5.9+).
Pitch three follows the chimney system to the end of roped climbing.
Scramble over the summit, eastward then northward, to reach Gem Lake. Or scramble south (tricky and exposed) into a gully, and bushwhack west to the trail.
Location
Start from the Gem Lake Trail where it touches the granite slab, about one tenth of a mile before reaching Gem Lake.
Protection
A standard rack through a #4.