Suspended Sentence

This is the lefthand of the two big roof routes at the far right end of the Primo Wall. It shares the start with "

Hangman

" to the second bolt.

Where "

Hangman

" traverses right, continue straight up to the roof crack above. The crack contains a finger-eating lock (you'll know which finger to tape after you let this puppy chew on you), followed by a big blind reach out right for a sloping jug and a reach back left for the lip and the anchor hooks.

If you ever wanted to know what a 5.12b fingerlock feels like, this is it. Just be thankful you don't have to fish in a crummy piece of gear to protect it like they did back in the olden days.

Five bolts to a pair of 1/2" open hooks.