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Peak Mountain 3

Pincushion

FA unknown
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Description

This is a good quality line that goes up to the top of the second tier of cliffs. A bunch of old pitons found in this corner indicate that this route has some history to it.

Climb a white crack to a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof with an offwidth crack. Continue up the wide crack to a large ledge. (This pitch is not really up to the quality of the climbing above; a more aesthetic start might be to climb Chocolate Sunday to reach the big ledge.)

At the far right end of the large ledge, climb the corner system and belay in a small alcove with some fixed pins. The next pitch continues up the crack, past a small roof, a short offwidth, and a few more fixed pitons. Eventually climb a featured chimney to the top.

Descend by walking left (east) to a wide broken area. On the eastern edge of the broken area, a rappel from a pine tree leads down a featured slab to the ledges above Soylent Green Jeans. There is a rappel tree here also, but it is easier to scramble (skier's right) down a short 4th class section, coming out at the big pine tree beneath Soylent Green Jeans.

Location

Begin on the right edge of the Hanging Block Buttress, immediately to the left of a large pine tree.

Protection

Std rack