Midnight Intruder

Named for the mouse who got

in our truck

while we trying to sleep! We had to unpack the whole rig and flush him out.

Pitch 1:

5.11-

/ 32 meters (approx.) Starts with 20 feet of clean big hands crack before you encounter a series of stacked blocks. I cleaned all the small stuff. The large blocks feel solid but use caution. The climbing past the blocks is about 10a/b. After the blocks, follow the big hands crack through several OW pods. Getting in and out of the pods is the crux. Rap anchor below a small roof. 2.5 stars.

Pitch 2:

5.11+ A1? / 32 meters (approx.) We never freed this pitch, so the grade is a guess. From the hanging belay, pull a small roof on hand jams and ring locks. The crack peters out, so you need to transfer to a crack about 7 feet to the right. I accomplished this by a short pendulum off a few .4s. I intended to put in a bolt but got rained off. The traverse might go free. After the pendulum, there is a short but tough section of steep splitter .75 ring locks. This felt like 11+ but could be aided with a few slings. After a good stance, the crack turns to perfect hands through a steep flare with some good rests. The pitch ends at a great ledge with a two-bolt anchor.

Descent:

Two raps with a single 70 m rope.

Note:

I wanted to take this route to the top of the formation. I think it will go, but the climbing will only get wider and chossier. Maybe someone else will finish it. Maybe I will get a mouse in my pants and go back.

Also, someone stronger could probably skip the the terrible hanging belay and turn this into one 70 m mega pitch.

Starts in the big hand crack behind the leaning pillar. See picture.

Pitch 1: (2) .4s, (2) .5s, (3) #1s, (2) #2s, (5) #3s, (3) #4s, (1) #6. All listed gear is new BD camalots. For the second pitch, add (3-4) .75s, and maybe a few more hand pieces.