- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route goes up the center of the North Devil's Wing for several hundred feet before joining the Northwest Ridge of the North Wing to the summit. It is a good route with solid stone. The route starts from the point of rock ~20 meters due west (nearest to) of the summit of The Keel and rises up and left on a distinct leaning crack system. After a few hundred feet this system gets clogged with shrubs and dirt, at which point you go just right (North) onto the next face over and continue to climb up and left on that face. This is repeated until you reach the summit ridge- which is followed past some false summits to the true summit, perhaps 800' of climbing in all.
The true summit has a large boulder marking it, just to the West, with a towering and steep North face. To escape, down-climb to a notch and scramble west to this tower. To go back to the trail, go North down to a talus field, E/SE between the Wings and the Rudder, then back up W/SW between the Keel and the Wings, then down from there, South of the Keel toward the Sphinx on its North side, then East to the Mesa Trail.
These directions should not be taken lightly or capriciously unless you wish to end up in the narrow slot to the North, between the Keel and the South Shanahan Rocks... with the company of a mother bear and her cubs.
Note that there is no Eastward path down on the South side of the Wings- They are "cliffed out."
Eds. this appears to be the 5th wing counting from the left.
Location
Start in a left-leaning crack that ascends up the center of the North Wing, just behind the summit of The Keel.
Protection
Although we soloed this route, I did make note that it appeared a standard Flatirons rack (cams and nuts with long slings) could protect the route as well as similar east face routes.