Holiday In Cambodia

The king line!

Smack-dab in the middle of the wall lies the steepest belly of rock and most continuous climbing at the wall.

Start per the first two bolts of "

Prairie Fire

; and then veer right at the third bolt. Look for the glue-ins after the third bolt to designate the line. A short sequence gets you to the only rest ledge before embarking upwards. From here, a cryptic move gest you off the ledge, and a series of massive moves on large holds follow suit. Tech your way up the powerful belly of rock, and reach the world's best rest jug up top.

Shake it out, and prepare yourself for the final 3 bolt boulder problem above.

The route switches style and immediately becomes a power-techno masterpiece. Delicate face climbing on thin/insecure holds and and absence of feet make a stark difference to the moves below. A somewhat strenuous/technical clip on the Climbtech permadraw marks the last decent shake before dispatching the series of gastons and a tough pinch crux above. Decipher where to place your feet or log some sky miles. A working bolt above the permadraw makes for easy beta sussing.

*IMO, the route felt about 12c into a V8/7 boulder problem. I gave it a slash grade as it felt harder than other 8a's in the South Platte.

It is the obvious line of glue-in bolts at the wall right up the steepest part of the rock. Look for the lone Climbtech permadraw at 3/4 height marking its crux.

Bolts (alpine draws down low help mitigate with drag). It is best to try and stickclip the third bolt, and utilize it for the first protection point on the route for minimal drag.