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Peak Mountain 3

Stemasaurus

FA Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics, 1994
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Stemasaurus climbs up the right side of the wall to a ledge just below the right-facing corner system. It is tweaky to start and tricky to finish. Hanson gives Stemasaurus 12b; however, my bet is that the corner really goes as 12a. Getting established in the corner is hard, but it is largely a muscle move that uses the corner to get the feet high enough to establish a "stem". This is not a clean

Vertigo

type of stem, but an awkward, crunched up thing that is part stem, part layback. Good route with good continuity, and arguably the best line in this section.

Protection

Four draws and a rope. Originally, this line had only one bolt at the top for an anchor. One can top out and shift over to the RCA anchor to set up a sling-shot.

Now, there's now a 2-bolt top anchor courtesy of ARI.