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Peak Mountain 3

Over Orcsposed

FA Greg Collum, Mike Massey, Matt Kerns
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is fun and well protected, though the ledges are often covered in loose rock. Care must be taken to avoid knocking anything onto climbers at the Country. Avoid this route on busy days.

P1 (11b): From the belay ledge head leftwards on a steep but mellow traverse before cutting hard back to the right at a horizontal break. An oddly positioned bolt protects the crux and brings you to the base of a short OW leading to the belay. Consider using alpine draws to avoid drag.

P2 (12a): A gnarly layback (crux) brings you to a stance below...a gnarly layback. Continue upwards over a tricky roof to an anchor just below the summit of the tower. Features some exposed and desperate moves.

Walk off using the rungs or rap the route. Best rap route is straight down to Savage Gardens from the top of P1.

Location

From the top of the country, locate a trail leading to the left toward the base of the tower. A belay bolt and hanging chain mark the base of the route.  The most direct approach is from Kite Flying Blind or Leave my Face Alone.

Protection

~ 12 draws. Bolted anchors.


Routes in Orc Tower