- Edit (TBD)
Description
Make the high step up into the crack and jam easily upward, following the S curve to reach a stance. Move right 4' to a small left-facing corner and go up to its end. Climb through a small overhang then move up and leftward to a hand/finger crack. Follow crack to its end, move to neighboring cracks (either side) and work up easing angled terrain to a large ledge.
Location
This route lies left of the center of the Beardsley Buttress, starting at a handcrack which does not quite reach the ground (one of the cruxes is in fact getting off the ground), which "S" curves leftward 10' up. Descend by rappelling off a tree, or by a class 4 downclimb into the gully left of the buttress.
Protection
Bring a standard Adk. rack plus doubles of 1" to 2"+ cams, a couple full-length runners. There are no bolts, fixed anchors, or gear on the route.