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Peak Mountain 3

Juicy Tower

FA Ian Van Meter & Sam Stuckey 15, Feb 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route begins on the backside of the tower on climbers right. Pull a 5.10 mantle onto a small sloping ledge and perform a precarious traverse left to the first bolt. These moves are unprotectable and firmly R-rated for the first 20ft. Do not fall. Move up the blank face via the 3 bolt ladder at A0 (this section may go free with some outrageously hard arete climbing). Free climb the rightward trending ramp on some fun easy terrain to reach the 4th and final bolt, then finally mantle onto the summit!

Location

Drive Potash Road for 8.7 miles to a turnout at a large boulder. An obvious un-named tower lies directly across the river. Juicy Tower is barely visible against the Navajo cliff band approximately 1/4 mile upriver from this unnamed tower. Find a way to cross the river and navigate the nearly impenetrable tamarisk forests guarding the banks. Once you have freed yourself from the vegetation the rest of the approach is a leisurely 15-20 min walk - watch for crypto.

Protection

4 quickdraws

2 Bolt stainless anchor with chain on summit

Single 60m rope