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Peak Mountain 3

Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout)

FA D. Mabe, 2009. FFA: Mark Anderson, 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors.

A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found

here

.

Protection

Bring nearly 15 draws of varied lengths to run the route smoothly in its entirety.

A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY

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