- Edit (TBD)
Description
Ascends the obvious (and no doubt climbed a number of years ago) crack system on the NE side of BFD Rock.
Face climb directly above the boulders at the base. The "A" shaped face converges into a single hand/fist sized crack (past a couple of small bushes) which is climbed to a ledge. Climb to the summit with no pro (30' 5.5) on crumbly rock, or, belay at the ledge.
Location
Route is the obvious face to steep hand/fist crack on the NE side of the formation, visible from the road.
Either simul rappel from the ledge (one person back down the face, the other down the chimney on the opposite side of the ledge: take care!) or scramble to the summit, and, either downclimb back to the ledge or scramble to the south. Might be a down climb option. Might have to leave a sling on a horn. Take care if the anchors to "the Smell" are approached as that anchor is VERY exposed and the bolts are '87 vintage (and look it) and are a washer stack of dubius quality.
Protection
Standard rack of nuts and cams from small up to #4 Camalot (or equivalent).
No fixed gear, no fixed anchor.