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Peak Mountain 3

The Golden Ratio

FA Lee Hansche
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UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the most spectacular pitches I have ever climbed. No exaggeration. There are routes with a lot of finer qualities in certain ways but just based solely on the spectacle of the experience it really doesn't get much better than this. Predator is a comparable type of feeling but this is a lot more accessible difficulty wise for the average climber.  Climb the first 3/4 of Golden Child (no small feat of it's own). An easy slab in the first 4-5 bolts turns steeper and hyper technical. There are some rest positions but it has a way of leaving one on edge wondering if the next section is going to cause a slip and you will have to eventually climb it all over again. Clip a long sling at the second to last bolt on the face and traverse right to clip a draw on a 2 bolt anchor. This is where the intensity cranks up even if the difficulty isn't much greater. Make a spiral (you'll have to see it to fully understand) traverse to the right clipping fixed draws as you make your way around on a bottomless feature scrunching you down until you can exit in the most exposed situation this cliff could possibly offer. A few more moves will establish you on a comfortable perch in an epic location. To here the rope drag isn't bad but once you clip the anchor it's pretty intense and it becomes problematic to lower. So until I can work out that issue just tag the anchor and lower off of the last draw which is right by your knees. This thing is MEGA!

Location

If you walk the ledge all the way left you will walk right out onto a slab. Don't slip, it's a long way down. But as you get to this zone and you look up you will see the big bad roof above. This route climbs the orange slab staying left of the crack and corner eventually breaking right to a small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. The line spirals further right along an improbable feature eventually exiting out the lip of the roof.  

Protection

16 bolts to lower off. Due to rope drag it's best for now to just tag the anchor and then lower off the last quick-draw.