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Peak Mountain 3

Telomian

FA Mike Decker
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start as you would for Banga, but step right off the large boulder onto the face.  The crux comes quick moving from the 3rd to the 4th bolt and involves a large move to a right hand crimp - much easier if you are tall.  From here, sustained climbing on crimps and little flakes with the occasional pocket.  A large jug rest at two-thirds height let’s you get it all back before the last few bolts of sustained face climbing.

This is an excellent route and would be deserving of 3.5 stars if not for the large, loose blocks just left of the resting jug mentioned above.  Luckily, they are easily avoidable.  Also, the rock quality decreases a bit for the upper third and becomes somewhat dusty.

Worth doing!

Location

Immediately right of Banga

Protection

Bolts, fixed lower offs at the anchor