- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb the first two pitches of
Watchtower Standard
. Both belays are chain anchors. The third (final) pitch is
The Joker
. Traverse left from the belay, you will find two flaring cracks side by side. The crack closer to the belay is the one you want to be in higher up, although You can start it from the father flaring crack and move back into it, seemed to have better gear. Follow flaring crack up to face climbing (runout 5.7), to a bolt. Clip bolt and move onto north face, good climbing and good gear finishes the climb to chain anchors. Rappel watchtower standard route, one 60m gets you down, but tie the ends!! They just make it! There are R rated variations, this is just the most popular way up
The Joker
.
Protection
Lots of cams up to 3 ins. Offsets would work great, although I found plenty of good placements without any offsets. Bring doubles if you like to place gear often. The runout where the crack peters out is very stable climbing. (20ft).