Stur Chimney

The Stur Chimney is the classic and most commonly done route to the summit of Mount Heyburn.

Nearly shockingly good rock on this route while the rest of the peak seems encased in a sea of crumbling choss.

After a couple hundred feet of 3rd to 4th class scrambling with a smidge of loose rock, gain the base of the Stur Chimney.  Climb up the chimney for 2 to 3 pitches passing a few chockstones.  There are a couple of good belay spots in roomy alcoves or ledges.

The route finishes pretty much at the summit.  Descent by rappel down near the route of ascent.

Good rock and mind blowing views with a variety of reasonably protected steep, fun climbing make the Stur Chimney a classic route in the Sawtooth range.

The route can be done car-to-car or with an overnight spike camp at one of the Bench Lakes.

Approach most commonly done via the Bench Lakes trail.

From the saddle between the west summit of Heyburn and the west pinnacle at the top of the Bench Lake drainage, locate the nearly vertical split of chimney in the west face.  Some third and fourth class scrambling will lead to the base of the Stur Chimney.  Let the fun begin!

Alpine climbing rack with gear depending on comfort level for running out chimney and alpine climbing at a low fifth class level. A set of nuts and cams to 3” with slings to match would be adequate for most savvy alpine climbers.