Lockjaw

Just right of a large, right-facing corner, climb a deceptive slab to bolt 3. Lean left, clip bolt 4, then unclip 3 to prevent rope drag up higher. Climb left and up through adequately solid but appallingly chossy looking rock to reach a golden panel of rock. Decipher the fingery sequence to reach bolt 9, take a deep breath, and try not to flub the move onto the obvious ledge on the left. Climb a few more feet up a slab, and clip two bolts with chains.

A collection of "historic" debris at the base will mark the start and explain the "Tetanus Garden" name of the crag.

9 bolts plus two for the anchor.