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Peak Mountain 3

Cracked Earth

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Description

Alternate start to Blood and Pus. Begin ~5 ft further left in the shallow corner. Easy climbing straight up to the roof, then kick things up a notch as you traverse along the base of the roof to meet up with Blood and Pus. Get to good holds in the black rock, pull one or two more moves, then enjoy the romp to the top.

Note on the grade: the guidebook gives this thing a 9, but it was distinctly harder than The Dragon or Faint's Roof the way I climbed it. I may have gone a couple moves higher before traversing than the book describes, but the sequence felt very natural and really fun.

Location

Right side of the blocky face that forms the start of Faint's Roof, just left of Blood and Pus

Protection

Standard rack, a small cam or two (.2 X4, plus or minus a size) to protect the traverse.