- Edit (TBD)
Description
Follow the ever widening crack that flares out real wide (#6) at the top. Juggy moves and solid feet lead to a wide crack. The "rules" of this route are once you are to the proper off-width section you only use holds and jams inside the off-width. Feet are nice and fair game all over. Would likely go around 5.9 if you applied the same rules to the feet. Fun pitch, Worthy of a rip!Traverse left at the top for a great crack for a gear anchor, or top out onto an airy ledge with lots of loose blocks and extremely sharp edges. Walk off to the overlook or scamble down to the gully on climbers right at the top and rap off the pine trees with tat.
Location
This face is around the left side of Deceptive Buttress, you can't miss the wideness.Left of Surprise, Right of Blackwinter.
Protection
standard rack plus #4, #5, and #6 all are useful, but not absolutely necessary.
Routes in Union Walls
- 5Sixer of Corona5.6Trad