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Description
This one is worth a trip up the hill.
Pull an overhanging boulder problem off the ground to get established in the crack, which soon turns into an offwidth in a right-facing corner. The corner is capped by a roof. Watch the crack at the lip of the roof, it can be a rope pincher.
Above the roof, a hand crack eventually widens into a chimney that ends by a tree on a ledge. From here, continue up easy ground on the right to a larger tree at the top of the cliff.
Location
Between the Dodge City area and the Windwalker area, on a section of white wall set far back above the cliffside trail. There's an obvious vertical crack that splits the middle of the wall. A faint trail/bushwhack heads more or less straight up there from the main trail. (Watch out for poison ivy!) Or you can take the better trail on the right side near Windwalker, and then walk over left from Sunset Sonata, Dreamway, etc.
Protection
A #5 or #6 Camalot C4 is nice to have for the wide section. Otherwise, a standard rack. There's a stout tree at the top for rappelling.
Routes in Sunset South
- 23Divinity Crack5.9Trad