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Peak Mountain 3

Chimps in Negligee

FA Don Simmons, Bruce Morris 1992
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Description

A fun moderate on nice rock. While the moves are probably on the easy side of 5.9 (at least if you are taller), this route might be a bit unnerving for a leader at their limit due to the high first bolt.

Climb unprotected 5.6 slab for ten feet to a ledge. Ten more feet of easier slabbing gets you to the first bolt. Find the good holds and pull yourself over the well-protected roof (crux?). More easy slabbing leads to harder moves at two more roofs, with a bolt protecting each.

Location

Starts is fifty feet left of "Go I Know Not Whither" and ten feet left of "Charlie's Angel", a climb made obvious due to its large, bolt-protected roof.

To find "Chimps", look for a bolt about 20-25 feet off the ground, just to the right of a low angle, slabby ramp. This is the first bolt of "Chimps".

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor

Morris's excellent guidebook advises you to bring cams (.75-2 in), but I didn't really see much opportunity to place them. That said, you might as well bring them if you have them.

Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.