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Peak Mountain 3

Red Awakening

FA Flyn Brian McCray & Kurt "Burt" Arend, December 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs right out of the middle of the arch. Climb is heads up, with many pitches of long fall potential. Only a few really "dangerous" pitches (whatever that means) but overall classic route. The headwall has a pitch of drilling, we were hoping the seam panned out to no avail. One of the steeper pitches in Zion for sure.

Descent is best to try and find the top of Shunes Buttress and rap, we didn't and rapped off the back into a wicked slot canyon in a rain storm but that is for another story.

Please feel free to manipulate any hole on the route. We were low on bolts and rivets so we did a lot of angle holes.

But please leave your drill holstered while on lead, it is all there just try.

Location

Hike up under the arch and start up the obvious crack chimney thing.

Protection

60m ropes

2 sets nuts

3 ea TCU/Alien

2 ea .5-4 camalot

1 ea 4.5-5 camalot (old now #6)

8 1/2 angles (2 sawed)

2 ea LA

2 ea KB

6 RURP

16 Beaks