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Peak Mountain 3

VJ's

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Description

P1 - Start at landing up the rock stairs from the base of the slab. Follow up and left along the features with gear until you can clip a bolt. Continue up the slab following the path of least resistance with gear and bolts along the way. Finish up over an overlap to a two bolt anchor to the right of a ledge w/ trees. Sections may feel a little runout, though not too bad, know your slab technique. ~190ft. Can be done with a 60m if managed well.

P2 - Follow up and left to large ledge. Walk left on big ledge a few feet and continue up on unprotected slab. 5.3/5.4 runout of about 25 ft, great gear before the traverse starts. As you approach the headwall above (go higher than you might think), look left to traverse through the trees for approx 30ft. Downclimb a few feet to a nice ledge at the base of the open book, NOT the Great Corner.  Small cams for anchor. ~100ft.

P3 - Straightforward, take the corner all the way to the top. Gear is good, climbing is easy but it's overgrown. Careful of loose rock. ~100ft.

Location

The route runs from the base below the great corner to the top of the standard route.

Walk straight up to the top, walk-off the hiking trail to the left to the main lot, and then left back up the road to the climbers trail. Used to be a short hike until they rerouted the trail, might be best to rap, likely down the standard route.

Protection

P1 slab has a few bolts, you will need gear as well. Bolted anchors at top.

All gear from there.