Eagle's Way

Eagle's Way is a great route that follows some large features up the far right side of El Cap. The rock is generally solid with occasional loose sections and the climbing is a step up in difficulty from the Zodiac or Shield. Some of the fixed anchors could be replaced, as most of them consist of one good bolt in addition to one or two less-than-inspiring bolts/rivets.

The route starts out with five pitches of mostly fast and moderate free climbing that wanders up to a steep headwall. The first two pitches have some interesting free/aid traversing for those who don't plan to free climb the poorly protected 5.10-5.11 sections. The headwall is steep and sustained, never too difficult but often thought-provoking. The most difficult climbing is in thin cracks that take many beaks and sections of fixed junk (rusty broken RURPs/questionable heads). Near the top, you get to climb the amazing "C1 Beauty" which is one of the most striking splitters on El Cap.

As of September 2019, the route was pretty clean. Beware of some junk ropes hanging near pitch 5, they are not fixed to anything and I was alarmed to discover this after thoughtlessly yarding on them for some short sections. Eagle's Way is a solid option if you're looking to avoid crowds and check out a cool part of the wall that doesn't get climbed too often.

Eagle's Way starts a few hundred feet to the right of Zodiac.

Cams: 3 x 0.1- 1, 2 x 2- 3, 1 x 4- 5, the C1 Beauty pitch eats up small cams (0.2 and smaller) and some offsets are useful

Nuts: Single set, with a selection of smaller offsets

Beaks: ~10 large beaks, several each medium/small

Hooks: 2 x grappling, skyhook, talon

~10 Rivet hangers, several cinch-style for dowels