Leave My Flake Alone

Index's only multipitch 5.8 that doesn't involve climbing the buttlips chimney!

Pitch 1: Climb

Mourning Star

(5.8) and continue 20 feet up right to the anchor of Zoom.

Pitch 2: Start up Leave My Face Alone, following fun blocky terrain on bolts.  Supplemental gear is available in places.  Move right under the small roof to a triangular belay ledge. (5.7, 70', ~7 bolts)

Pitch 3, The Flake: Tricky and reachy right off the belay.  You may want to just climb on your belayer to reach better holds.  Follow the nice flake system to the top. (5.7, 50')

3 raps to get down with a 60 or 2 raps with a 70.  Toprope the slab of Leave My Face Alone while you're up there!

Originally climbed many years ago as a second pitch variation to Zoom, these two pitches on top of Mourning Star make a fine addition to Index's limited selection of relatively beginner friendly multipitches.  Climbed but never actually cleaned, the third flake pitch is labeled 5.9 in Sky Valley Rock.  Significant excavation there in the spring of 2018 yielded fun and wholely new climbing.  We decided the ledge below the flake was a natural stopping point, allowing for one fully bolted pitch and descent with a 60 meter rope, and more digging and the addition of anchors in spring of 2019 completed our vision of the route.  Though not a classic, this is a worthy route for the budding Index climber.  Enjoy!

7 or 8 draws, single rack to 4"